The Stockholm Archipelago: How to Island Hop by Ferry

A red cottage on an island in the Stockholm archipelago
Photo: Claudia Schmalz via Pexels

Scattered off the coast of the capital lies one of the largest archipelagos in the world, some thirty thousand islands, islets and bare skerries reaching out into the Baltic Sea. The Stockholm archipelago is where locals escape in summer, and it is far easier to visit than most travellers expect. This guide explains how to island hop, where to go, and when.

How the archipelago works

The islands fan out from the city in three broad bands. The inner archipelago, closest to Stockholm, is green and wooded with grand summer villas. The middle archipelago has the classic mix of pine forest, red cottages and swimming rocks. The outer archipelago thins into windswept skerries where the open sea begins. The further out you go, the wilder and quieter it becomes.

Getting there by ferry

You do not need a boat of your own. The historic ferry company Waxholmsbolaget runs a year round public network from central Stockholm to dozens of islands, and many routes are covered by the same SL transit system that runs the city metro. In summer the Strömma sightseeing boats add more connections. Buy a transit pass and the archipelago becomes an extension of the city for the price of a normal ticket.

Islands worth a day trip

Vaxholm

The gateway to the archipelago, Vaxholm is a pretty town of wooden houses and a seaside fortress, reachable in about an hour by boat. It makes an easy half day or day trip with cafes, swimming and an old town to wander.

Grinda

A classic middle archipelago island, Grinda is car free, laced with walking paths and ringed by swimming spots. It has a guesthouse, a summer restaurant and the calm, pine scented feel that defines the archipelago.

Sandhamn

Out toward the open sea, Sandhamn is a sailing village with white sand beaches and a lively summer harbour. It is the busiest of the outer islands and a favourite for a longer day out.

Fjäderholmarna

If time is short, the small islands of Fjäderholmarna are only twenty five minutes from the city centre, with craft studios, restaurants and rocks to swim from. They are the perfect taste of the archipelago without a full day’s commitment.

Archipelago essentials

  • Best season: June to August for swimming and full ferry timetables
  • Tickets: use an SL pass or buy from Waxholmsbolaget
  • Bring: swimwear, a picnic, and layers for the breeze on open water
  • Many islands are car free, so travel light

Staying overnight

To feel the archipelago at its best, stay a night. Options range from historic island hotels and hostels to simple guesthouses. Thanks to the Swedish right of public access, explained in our guide to allemansrätten, you can also camp responsibly on uncultivated land and swim almost anywhere, which is how many Swedes spend their summers here.

The archipelago pairs naturally with a few days in the capital, so read our guide to things to do in Stockholm first, then escape to the islands.